## The one decision that changes every number: CMT or Full Package

Before any price makes sense, you need to understand this split. It's the single biggest factor in Portuguese manufacturing costs, and most first-time brands either don't know it exists or don't understand what it means for them.

**CMT (Cut, Make, Trim):** You supply the fabric, all trims, labels, and hardware. The factory cuts, sews, and finishes. You carry the material sourcing burden. The factory carries only the labour cost.

**Full Package Production (FPP):** The factory sources and purchases the fabric, trims, labels, everything. They manage the material supply chain. You receive finished garments. Higher per-unit cost, but the factory absorbs the sourcing complexity.

The price difference between CMT and FPP at low volumes in Portugal is typically **35–60%.** On a hoodie at 200 units, that's the difference between €22 and €50 per unit. Both are the same garment from the same factory.

Neither is better. CMT makes sense if you already have fabric relationships, you're sourcing sustainable materials yourself, or you're producing a repeat style where you know the fabric exactly. FPP makes sense if you're launching, you don't have time to source fabric, or you're working across multiple materials you can't manage separately.

Know which you're asking for before you approach a factory. A factory that receives a FPP enquiry from a brand expecting CMT prices will decline without explanation. This is one of the most common reasons first outreach fails.

## Price ranges by product category

These are FOB (ex-works from Portugal) price ranges at small-brand volumes, typically 100–500 units per style. Prices per unit fall as volumes increase.

| Category                      | CMT price/unit | FPP price/unit | Notes                                                                       |
| ----------------------------- | -------------- | -------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| T-shirts / basics             | €4–9           | €10–20         | Jersey. Simple construction drives lowest prices.                           |
| Hoodies / sweatshirts         | €14–24         | €30–55         | French terry or fleece. Hardware, pockets, and hem weight affect the range. |
| Knitwear (jumpers, cardigans) | €18–38         | €40–80         | Gauge, stitch complexity, and yarn origin drive the spread.                 |
| Shorts / trousers (woven)     | €12–22         | €28–50         | Construction complexity and closure type affect significantly.              |
| Trousers / wide-leg (woven)   | €18–30         | €38–65         | Fabric weight and lining add cost.                                          |
| Cut & sew activewear          | €10–20         | €24–45         | Technical fabric sourcing complexity pushes FPP higher.                     |
| Seamless activewear           | €14–28         | -              | Seamless is almost always quoted FPP. Machine economics dominate.           |
| Technical outerwear           | €45–90         | €90–180        | Shell + lining construction. DWR treatments add 10–20%.                     |
| Structured tailoring          | €40–80         | €80–160        | Interfacing, canvassing, and finishing drive the range wide.                |
| Denim                         | €20–35         | €45–75         | Wash treatment and hardware are significant variables.                      |

These ranges assume a first-time order with no prior relationship at that factory. Repeat orders at the same factory typically come in 10–20% lower as the factory amortises development costs.

**What makes a quote land at the top of the range vs the bottom:**

* Volume (fewer units = higher per-unit cost, always)

* First order vs repeat (first order carries development premium)

* Certifications required (OEKO-TEX, GOTS add 8–15% in some cases)

* Complexity of construction (unusual seams, bonded panels, hidden openings)

* Fabric origin (European-sourced fabric adds lead time, Portuguese domestic fabric is fastest)

* Season timing (see the August note below)

## Minimum order quantities

MOQs in Portugal are less standardised than the industry articles suggest. They depend less on what the factory states publicly and more on the specific product and the machine economics behind it.

| Factory type               | MOQ range             | What drives it                                       |
| -------------------------- | --------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------- |
| Small specialist workshops | 20–100 units/style    | Labour-intensive, relationship-dependent             |
| Mid-size cut & sew         | 100–300 units/style   | Setup and sampling cost amortisation                 |
| Knitwear specialists       | 100–500 units/style   | Yarn purchase minimums and machine setup             |
| Seamless knit              | 200–500 units/colour  | Machine setup is fixed cost regardless of run length |
| Large export-oriented      | 500–2,000 units/style | Production line efficiency requirements              |

**The seamless MOQ problem explained:** Seamless knit machines (circular knit, body-size programming) carry a fixed setup cost per colourway, not per unit. A factory running 70 units of seamless shorts is losing money on setup relative to running 350. This is why seamless factories quote high MOQs. It's not negotiable, it's economics. If your seamless volumes are under 200 units per colour, look at cut and sew construction for the equivalent garment instead.

**The factory-stated MOQ vs the real MOQ:** Many factories list MOQs publicly that reflect their preference, not their floor. A factory that says 300 units will sometimes take 120 from a brand with a well-prepared brief, clean tech packs, and clear payment terms. A factory that says 100 units may decline an 80-unit order if the brief is incomplete. The quality of your approach matters as much as the number.

## Lead times

Lead times in Portugal are commonly misquoted in both directions. Agencies quote optimistic windows to win the business. Brands plan to the best-case scenario and then call it a failure when reality hits.

Here are realistic ranges, split by phase:

| Phase                                        | Realistic timeframe |
| -------------------------------------------- | ------------------- |
| First response to a well-prepared brief      | 3–10 business days  |
| Sample development (from approved tech pack) | 2–5 weeks           |
| Sample revision round                        | 1–3 weeks per round |
| Production (cut & sew, post sample approval) | 6–10 weeks          |
| Production (knitwear, post sample approval)  | 8–14 weeks          |
| Production (seamless, post sample approval)  | 8–12 weeks          |
| Shipping to UK / Western Europe (road)       | 3–7 days            |
| Shipping to UK / Western Europe (express)    | 1–2 days            |

**Total timeline from first contact to delivery in hand: 16–26 weeks** for a first-time order including one sample revision round. Plan for 22 weeks if you have never worked with this factory before and want one sample revision.

**The August problem:** Portuguese factories close, reduce capacity significantly, or operate skeleton teams during August. If your brief arrives in July for a production run starting in September, you are working with a factory that is either distracted or unavailable for 4–6 weeks of your critical development window. Build August out of your production calendar from day one. Plan your September delivery to start with a factory conversation no later than February.

## What factories actually need before they'll quote

This is the part that explains most unanswered emails.

A Portuguese factory receiving a cold email from an unknown brand asking for prices will almost never respond, not because they're rude or uninterested, but because the information required to give a meaningful quote is missing. Factories run on margin. Spending time quoting a brief that contains no volume, no construction detail, and no delivery expectation is not a priority against the orders they already have.

What gets a response:

* **Tech pack or detailed sketch** with seam construction, hardware details, and measurements

* **Fabric specification** or a clear question about sourcing (CMT or FPP)

* **Volume** per style and per colourway

* **Target delivery date** (not "ASAP")

* **Budget range or target FOB price** (yes, share this, a factory that can't hit your range will tell you, which saves both sides time)

* **Your brand context** who you are, what you make, where you sell

A four-line email with none of these will be ignored by every factory worth working with.

## The certifications question

Most independent European brands ask about certifications early in the process. Here's what's realistic at the MOQs and budgets small brands work with:

**OEKO-TEX Standard 100:** Widely available. Certifies that finished garments and fabrics contain no harmful substances. Most Portuguese factories working with FPP on European-mill fabrics can meet this. Confirm at brief stage.

**GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard):** Requires certified organic input fibres throughout the supply chain. Fewer factories hold this. If it's a requirement, filter factories by certification before approaching them, it narrows the field significantly.

**GRS (Global Recycled Standard):** For recycled material claims. Requires full chain of custody from the recycled input. Available at several Portuguese mills but requires specific fabric sourcing.

**ISO 9001 / SA8000:** Quality management and social accountability certifications. Larger factories hold these; smaller workshops often don't but can meet the same standards in practice.

Do not ask a factory to obtain a certification they don't hold for your first order. It is a multi-year process. If a certification is a hard requirement for your brand, it must be a filter at the discovery stage, not a negotiation at the quoting stage.

## The cost comparison brands actually want

How does Portugal compare to the alternatives at small-brand volumes?

|                           | Portugal   | Turkey        | China (pre-tariff) |
| ------------------------- | ---------- | ------------- | ------------------ |
| Basic tee, FPP, 200 units | €10–18     | €7–14         | €5–10              |
| Hoodie, FPP, 200 units    | €30–55     | €22–40        | €16–28             |
| Knitwear, FPP, 200 units  | €40–80     | €30–60        | €20–40             |
| MOQ floor (cut & sew)     | 100 units  | 100–200 units | 200–500 units      |
| Lead time (production)    | 6–10 weeks | 5–9 weeks     | 10–16 weeks        |
| Shipping to UK            | 3–7 days   | 5–10 days     | 18–35 days         |
| EU compliance             | Full       | Partial       | Requires audit     |
| Made in Europe label      | Yes        | No            | No                 |

Portugal is not the cheapest option. It is not meant to be. The landed cost, including shipping, duties, QC travel, and inventory carrying cost, narrows the gap with China significantly at low volumes, and the "Made in Portugal" or "Made in Europe" positioning carries real commercial value for the brands that can use it. For brands where that claim is part of the product, the per-unit premium is the cost of the story.

## The one thing that changes everything

Every number in this article is real. And every number in this article is also negotiable in one direction: upward, when a factory doesn't trust that you'll follow through.

Portuguese factories work on relationship and reputation. A first-order brand with a well-prepared brief, clear payment terms, and a realistic expectation of the process will get better quotes, faster responses, and more flexibility on MOQs than a brand that sends a three-line email and anchors aggressively below market.

The factories worth working with have more orders than they need. They are selecting which brands to develop relationships with. You are not just finding a supplier. You are applying to work with them.

*NovaSupplier connects independent fashion brands directly with vetted Portuguese manufacturers, no agent, no commission layer between you and the factory. Brief, quote, sample, order. You own the relationship.*

*[Start sourcing →](https://www.novasupplier.com)*


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