## What is AQL in garment inspection?

AQL (Acceptance Quality Limit) is a sampling rule that tells an inspector how many garments to pull from a finished lot and how many defective pieces that sample can contain before the whole lot fails. Most clothing brands use AQL 2.5 for major defects, 4.0 for minor defects and zero tolerance for critical defects. For a small run of 91 to 150 pieces, that means checking 20 garments: the lot passes on major defects with 1 defective piece or fewer and fails at 2.

The numbers come from the sampling tables in ISO 2859-1 (the same tables as ANSI/ASQ Z1.4), which inspection companies use worldwide. You pick three settings (lot size, inspection level and AQL per defect class) and the table gives you the sample size and the accept and reject numbers. The rest of this guide covers the numbers for small lots, a complete checklist, and how to make inspection part of your order rather than an argument after delivery.

> **Data: NovaSupplier factory profiles, October 2026.** Across the 60 factories that publish MOQ data, the median lowest minimum is 100 units per style. 364 of the 772 product-level MOQ ranges those factories publish start at 100 units or fewer. Most first runs from Portugal therefore fall in the smallest rows of the AQL table, where the rules behave differently from large orders.

## How does AQL sampling work, step by step?

AQL sampling has four inputs and two outputs.

| Step | What you set | Typical choice for clothing |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Lot size | Number of finished pieces in the shipment or batch | Your order quantity, for example 150 |
| 2. Inspection level | How much of the lot to look at | General Inspection Level II, the default |
| 3. AQL per defect class | How many defects you tolerate | Critical 0, major 2.5, minor 4.0 |
| 4. Single sampling, normal inspection | Which table to use | The standard plan for a first order |
| Output: sample size | Pieces the inspector pulls at random | Read from the table |
| Output: Ac and Re | Accept number and reject number | Pass at Ac or fewer, fail at Re or more |

QIMA, one of the largest inspection companies, describes AQL 2.5 as the most common level for general consumer goods, AQL 4.0 as the level used where minor cosmetic defects are acceptable, and notes that AQL for critical defects is commonly 0 ([QIMA](https://www.qima.com/aql-acceptable-quality-limit)).

The lot size gives you a code letter, and the code letter plus the AQL gives you the plan. One detail trips people up: some cells in the table contain an arrow, which sends you to a different row. That is why one lot size can have different sample sizes for different AQLs ([AQL Chart](https://aqlchart.com/learn/aql-sample-size-chart-general-level-ii/)).

## What sample size do you need for a small clothing order?

These are the plans for General Inspection Level II, single sampling, normal inspection, with the arrows already followed. Each cell shows the number of pieces to check, then the accept and reject numbers.

| Lot size (pieces) | Code letter | Major defects, AQL 2.5 | Minor defects, AQL 4.0 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 26 to 50 | D | 5 pieces, accept 0, reject 1 | 13 pieces, accept 1, reject 2 |
| 51 to 90 | E | 20 pieces, accept 1, reject 2 | 13 pieces, accept 1, reject 2 |
| 91 to 150 | F | 20 pieces, accept 1, reject 2 | 20 pieces, accept 2, reject 3 |
| 151 to 280 | G | 32 pieces, accept 2, reject 3 | 32 pieces, accept 3, reject 4 |
| 281 to 500 | H | 50 pieces, accept 3, reject 4 | 50 pieces, accept 5, reject 6 |
| 501 to 1,200 | J | 80 pieces, accept 5, reject 6 | 80 pieces, accept 7, reject 8 |
| 1,201 to 3,200 | K | 125 pieces, accept 7, reject 8 | 125 pieces, accept 10, reject 11 |

Sources: [AQL Chart, General Level II grid](https://aqlchart.com/learn/aql-sample-size-chart-general-level-ii/) and [Clear to Load AQL 2.5 chart](https://cleartoload.com/guides/aql-sampling-explained/aql-charts.pdf), both based on ISO 2859-1 and ANSI/ASQ Z1.4.

Three things follow for small brands:

1. **The sample is a large share of a small lot.** Checking 20 pieces out of 100 is a fifth of the order. Checking 200 pieces out of 4,000 (code letter L) is a twentieth.
2. **The tolerance is tight in absolute terms.** At 91 to 150 pieces and AQL 2.5, a second defective garment in the sample fails the lot.
3. **When the columns differ, agree the sample in advance.** At 26 to 50 pieces the major and minor plans ask for 5 and 13 pieces. Tell your inspector which sample size to pull so both checks are done on the same garments.

The table footnote also says that if the sample size equals or exceeds the lot size, every unit should be inspected ([AQL Chart](https://aqlchart.com/learn/aql-sample-size-chart-general-level-ii/)). For a lot of 50 pieces or fewer, many founders simply check every garment themselves.

## What counts as a critical, major or minor defect in clothing?

AQL only works if everyone classifies defects the same way. Write your classification into the purchase order or a one-page quality sheet, with photos where you can.

| Class | Definition | Garment examples | Usual AQL |
|---|---|---|---|
| Critical | Could harm the wearer or breaks a legal requirement | Broken needle or sharp metal in the garment, a choking or entrapment hazard on childrenswear, missing or wrong mandatory label information | 0 |
| Major | Likely to cause a return or make the product unsellable at full price | Open seam, hole, wrong colour or shade versus the approved sample, measurement outside tolerance, broken zip, misplaced print, wrong size label | 2.5 |
| Minor | Visible but would not normally cause a return | Untrimmed thread, small mark that cleans off, slightly uneven topstitching in a hidden area, minor creasing from packing | 4.0 |

Two rules make classification fair to both sides:

- **One garment, one count.** A garment with three minor defects counts as one defective piece in the minor class, unless your quality sheet says otherwise. Agree this in writing.
- **The approved sample is the reference.** A defect is a deviation from the approved pre-production sample and the tech pack, not from your idea of the product. If the shade was approved, a matching shade is not a defect. Our guide on [why bulk orders don't match the sample](/hub/blog/why-your-bulk-order-doesnt-match-the-sample-and-how-to-prevent-it) covers how to lock that reference.

## What should a garment inspection checklist include?

A complete checklist has seven parts. Send it to the factory and the inspector before production starts, not on inspection day.

**1. Documents on the table**

- Approved pre-production sample, sealed or tagged
- [Tech pack](/hub/blog/what-is-a-tech-pack-and-what-a-portuguese-factory-needs-in-it) with the measurement chart and tolerances for every size
- Bill of materials: fabric, trims, labels, packaging
- Purchase order with quantities per style, colour and size
- Your defect classification and AQL settings

**2. Quantity and packing**

- Total quantity produced and packed per style, colour and size
- Carton count, carton marks and any carton weight or size you specified
- Folding, polybag, tissue or hanger as specified
- Size and colour assortment per carton

**3. Labels and marking**

- Brand label, size label and position
- Care and fibre composition labels present, legible and matching the BOM
- Country of origin wording as specified
- Barcodes, swing tags and price tickets, scanned if you supplied codes

**4. Visual workmanship**

- Seams closed, even and secure; no skipped or broken stitches
- Fabric free of holes, slubs, stains and shading between panels
- Prints, embroidery and appliqué positioned, aligned and complete
- Trims secure: buttons, snaps, eyelets, drawcords

**5. Measurements**

- Measure a subset of the sample in every size against the chart
- Record each point of measure, not just pass or fail
- Flag any point outside the tolerance in your tech pack

**6. Function checks**

- Zips open and close smoothly over their full length
- Buttons and snaps withstand a firm pull
- Waistbands and cuffs recover after stretching
- Garment goes on and off without strain at the opening

**7. Comparison with the approved sample**

- Colour and shade under the same light
- Hand feel and weight of the fabric
- Fit on a form or a fit model, if you specified one

Ask for a written report with photos of every defect found, the measurement sheet, and a clear pass, fail or pending result per defect class.

## When should a clothing order be inspected?

There are three standard inspection points. For a small run, the final one is usually enough, provided the pre-production sample was approved properly.

| Inspection | When | What it catches | Fits a small run? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Initial production check | Before production and up to the first 20% | Wrong fabric, trims or labels before they are sewn into the whole order | Useful for a first order with a new factory or a complex style |
| During production inspection | Once at least 20% of the order is produced | Workmanship drift while there is still time to correct it | Rarely needed under a few hundred pieces |
| Pre-shipment inspection | When at least 80% of the order is complete and packing has begun | Final quality, quantity and packing before goods leave | Yes, the standard choice |

Timing definitions as described by [QIMA's pre-shipment inspection page](https://www.qima.com/pre-shipment-inspection), [during production page](https://www.qima.com/during-production-inspection) and [initial production check page](https://www.qima.com/initial-production-check).

On a short Portuguese run, production after sample approval typically takes 6 to 10 weeks, so book the final inspection as soon as the factory confirms a packing date. Our [production timeline guide](/hub/blog/clothing-production-timeline-how-long-everything-actually-takes) shows where inspection sits in the full calendar.

## Who should inspect a small clothing run?

| Option | Strengths | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| You, at the factory | You know the product best; builds the relationship | Travel time; easy to inspect by feel instead of by the table |
| Third-party inspection company | Independent, follows ISO 2859-1, standard report | Book ahead; brief them with your sample and tech pack |
| Independent local QC freelancer | Flexible and close to the factory | Check experience and ask for a sample report first |
| Factory's own quality team | Already on site, no scheduling | Not independent; ask for their report but do not rely on it alone |

QIMA makes the independence point directly: when sampling is done by the factory's own quality team, the incentive is to pass, so a supplier-run AQL check is not the same outcome as an independent one ([QIMA](https://www.qima.com/aql-acceptable-quality-limit)). That does not mean a factory's own check is worthless. It means the final pass or fail decision should rest with someone who does not benefit from the result.

Whoever inspects, tell the factory in advance. Inspection should be in the quote and the purchase order, not a surprise on packing day. When you [vet a factory](/hub/blog/how-to-vet-a-clothing-manufacturer-before-you-commit), ask whether they accept third-party inspection.

## What should the purchase order say about inspection?

Most disputes about quality are really disputes about what was agreed. Put these lines in the PO or a signed quality sheet:

- **Standard:** ISO 2859-1, single sampling, normal inspection, General Inspection Level II.
- **AQL per class:** critical 0, major 2.5, minor 4.0, or your own choice.
- **Reference:** the approved pre-production sample and tech pack revision, by date or version.
- **Inspector:** who inspects, and that the factory will give access and pull cartons at random.
- **Timing:** final inspection when at least 80% is packed, or the stage you choose.
- **On failure:** the factory sorts and reworks the lot at its own cost, then the lot is re-inspected. Agree in advance who pays for a re-inspection.
- **Payment link:** the balance is released on a passed final inspection. Our guide to [payment terms with a clothing manufacturer](/hub/blog/how-to-structure-payment-terms-with-a-clothing-manufacturer) shows how to structure deposit and balance around this.

## What happens if a lot fails AQL inspection?

A failed result is not the end of the order. It is a trigger for a defined process:

1. **Read the report.** Check which class failed and why. A fail on minor defects caused by loose threads is a different conversation from a fail on measurements.
2. **Agree the fix.** Usually the factory sorts the full lot, repairs or replaces defective pieces, and repacks.
3. **Re-inspect.** The lot is inspected again at the same settings. Do not accept "we fixed it" without a second check.
4. **Decide on exceptions in writing.** If you accept a deviation (for example a slightly different shade you can live with), record it, so the reorder is made to the right reference.
5. **Feed it back into the tech pack.** A defect that appeared once will appear again unless the spec or tolerance changes.

If the problem is the sample-to-bulk gap rather than workmanship, see [why your bulk order doesn't match the sample](/hub/blog/why-your-bulk-order-doesnt-match-the-sample-and-how-to-prevent-it).

## Is AQL worth it for a run of 100 pieces?

Yes, in a simplified form. A full third-party inspection may feel large for a run of 100, but the method still helps:

- **Use the table even if you inspect yourself.** Pull 20 pieces at random from a lot of 91 to 150 and count major and minor defects against the accept and reject numbers. It replaces "looks fine" with a decision rule.
- **Check every piece for critical defects** on childrenswear and anything with small parts, whatever the lot size.
- **Inspect before the balance, not after delivery.** Defects found in your warehouse are harder to resolve than defects found at the factory.

Small runs are normal in Portugal. Across the 60 factories that publish MOQ data, 9 have a lowest minimum of 50 units. Across the same 60 factories, 43 have a lowest minimum of 100 units or fewer. See our [low MOQ guide](/hub/blog/low-moq-clothing-manufacturers-in-portugal) and [how many units your first run should be](/hub/blog/how-many-units-should-your-first-clothing-production-run-be) for how to size the order.

:::faq

### What AQL is standard for clothing?

Most brands use AQL 2.5 for major defects, AQL 4.0 for minor defects and 0 for critical defects. QIMA describes 2.5 as the most common level for general consumer goods and 4.0 as the level where minor cosmetic defects are acceptable.

### How many pieces are checked in an AQL 2.5 inspection of 100 garments?

20 pieces. A lot of 91 to 150 is code letter F at General Inspection Level II, and at AQL 2.5 the lot passes with 1 defective piece or fewer and fails at 2, per the ISO 2859-1 tables.

### What does AQL 2.5 mean?

It is the quality limit used to pick the sampling plan, not a promise that 2.5% of the shipment is defective. The table turns it into a sample size and an accept and reject number for your lot size.

### When should a pre-shipment inspection be done?

When at least 80% of the order is complete and packing has begun, so the inspector can pull finished, packed goods at random.

### Can the factory do the AQL inspection?

It can do its own check, and you should ask for the report. For the final pass or fail decision, use someone independent of the factory, such as yourself, a third-party inspection company or an independent QC.

:::

## Sources

All links checked 28 October 2026.

- QIMA, Acceptable Quality Limit (AQL): https://www.qima.com/aql-acceptable-quality-limit
- QIMA, Pre-shipment inspection: https://www.qima.com/pre-shipment-inspection
- QIMA, During production inspection: https://www.qima.com/during-production-inspection
- QIMA, Initial production check: https://www.qima.com/initial-production-check
- AQL Chart, AQL sample size chart for General Level II: https://aqlchart.com/learn/aql-sample-size-chart-general-level-ii/
- Clear to Load, AQL 2.5 and AQL 4.0 charts: https://cleartoload.com/guides/aql-sampling-explained/aql-charts.pdf
- NovaSupplier factory profiles, MOQ data, October 2026 (self-reported by factories)

*Updated 28 October 2026. Sampling plans are from ISO 2859-1 / ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 single sampling, normal inspection, General Inspection Level II, as published by the sources above. Confirm the edition of the standard and your settings with your inspector before booking.*

***

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