## How do you place a first bulk order in Portugal, step by step?

A first bulk order is the production purchase order (PO) you place after you have approved samples, not another proto. Lock the sealed sample (SMS) and measurement chart, confirm fabric lot and Incoterm, fund the deposit, then work backwards from the ship-by date through pre-production (PP) sample, cut, sew, AQL inspection and delivery. Typical production lead time in Portugal is 6 to 10 weeks after sample approval; sampling sits before that window.

This guide covers what "first bulk" means, a readiness checklist, a backwards calendar with dates, PO hygiene, how to keep bulk matching the sample, first-run sizing against published MOQs, red flags, and when parallel sampling belongs in the plan.

## What is a first bulk order versus another sample?

Founders often confuse the two. A sample round proves fit, fabric and construction. A first bulk order is the first commercial cut: real quantities by size and colour, deposit and balance terms, packing rules, and a delivery window you will ship or sell against.

| Stage | Purpose | Typical output |
|---|---|---|
| Proto / development sample | See if the style can be made | One or few pieces; often still changing |
| Fit / size set | Lock measurements | Graded sizes against a chart |
| SMS (sealed / approved sample) | Bulk reference | Physical reference both sides keep |
| PP sample | Prove bulk-intent fabric and construction | One style from production fabric before full cut |
| First bulk | Sellable stock | Full PO quantities, AQL, packing, invoice |

If you still change colourways weekly, you are not in bulk yet. If the factory treats your "production PO" as another sample request, rewrite the PO so quantity, SMS revision, delivery window and payment terms are unambiguous.

## Are you ready for a first production PO?

Do not cut until each item below is true in writing.

| Ready item | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Approved SMS labelled with style and revision | Bulk is judged against one reference, not a mood board |
| Measurement chart with tolerances | Fit drift is how returns start |
| Fabric confirmed (supplier, quality, shade, lead time) | Late fabric is the most common silent delay |
| Deposit funded on the agreed calendar | Unfunded deposits stall the cut while wholesale dates stay fixed |
| Named Incoterm on the PO | EXW, FOB and DDP put different costs and risk on you; see [ICC Incoterms 2020](https://iccwbo.org/business-solutions/incoterms-rules/incoterms-2020/) |
| Packing, labelling and carton rules | Retail and DTC refuse on pack as often as on stitch |
| AQL and fault classes agreed | Arguments without a shared standard become endless; see the [garment inspection checklist and AQL guide](/hub/blog/garment-inspection-checklist-and-aql-for-small-brands) |
| Tech pack that matches the SMS | Conflicting PDFs recreate the "beautiful sample that lied" failure |

Build the pack once with the [tech pack guide](/hub/blog/what-is-a-tech-pack-and-what-a-portuguese-factory-needs-in-it). Payment structure without invented percentages: [how to structure payment terms with a clothing manufacturer](/hub/blog/how-to-structure-payment-terms-with-a-clothing-manufacturer). Scope (full package vs CMT vs FOB naming): [full package vs CMT vs FOB](/hub/blog/full-package-vs-cmt-vs-fob-clothing-production).

Founder communities keep repeating the same first-run pains: overpaying when specs were weak, a first sample that looked flawless but did not repeat at a few hundred units, late samples across factories, and bulk that did not match the sample. The readiness list above is how you avoid those.

## How do you build a backwards calendar from the ship-by date?

Work from the in-store or ship-by date, not from "when the factory says they can start." Typical production lead time in Portugal is 6 to 10 weeks after sample approval. Sampling and fabric confirmation sit before that.

| Stage | What must be true | Relative to ship-by |
|---|---|---|
| Brief and factory shortlist locked | Tech pack, quantities by colour, Incoterm, target date | T minus 16 to 20 weeks |
| Samples ordered and dated | Paid samples; same brief if you sample more than one factory | T minus 12 to 16 weeks |
| SMS and size set approved | Physical SMS + chart revision both parties keep | T minus 10 to 12 weeks |
| Fabric reserved / received for bulk | Lot and shade notes attached to the PO | Before cut; often overlaps late sampling |
| PP sample from bulk-intent fabric | Approved before full cut | T minus 8 to 11 weeks |
| Bulk cut and sew | Inside the 6 to 10 week production window | T minus 6 to 10 weeks |
| In-line / final AQL booked | Pass/fail against SMS and AQL before balance and ship | T minus 1 to 3 weeks |
| Pack, invoice, ship | Packing list matches PO; Incoterm followed | Ship week |

Portuguese factories often run thin through August. A calendar that assumes full capacity in August is how first bulk slips. The [clothing production timeline](/hub/blog/clothing-production-timeline-how-long-everything-actually-takes) and [samples in Portugal](/hub/blog/clothing-samples-in-portugal-timeline-cost-and-rounds) cover stage detail. If you are still choosing between factories, [parallel sampling explained](/hub/blog/parallel-sampling-explained-and-when-it-saves-a-season) shows when overlapping samples protects wholesale dates.

## What belongs on the first bulk purchase order?

PO hygiene prevents most first-run disputes.

1. **One factory, one PO number.** Do not recycle numbers across factories or seasons.
2. **Style, colourway, size breakdown.** Quantities by SKU, not a single lump total.
3. **SMS and measurement chart revision** the cut is against.
4. **Fabric and trim references** (supplier, quality, lot or shade band when known).
5. **Named Incoterm** and delivery place or port.
6. **Delivery window** (not only a hope date).
7. **Deposit and balance triggers** (what event releases the next payment).
8. **AQL levels and fault list** (critical / major / minor).
9. **Packing, polybag, label and carton rules.**
10. **Over/under delivery tolerance** if you agree one.

Compare quotes before you lock the PO with the [side-by-side quote template](/hub/blog/how-to-compare-factory-quotes-side-by-side). Do not invent deposit percentages; agree them in writing and fund them before you announce a launch.

## How do you stop bulk from not matching the sample?

The classic failure is a beautiful SMS that does not repeat at 300 to 500 units. Prevent it with process, not hope.

| Control | What to do |
|---|---|
| Same fabric intent | PP sample from the bulk fabric story, not leftover sample rolls |
| Same construction | Construction pages in the tech pack match the SMS seams and finishes |
| Same shade language | Lot numbers and shade bands written on the PO |
| Same measurement chart | Tolerances both sides signed; size set approved |
| Same AQL | Final inspection against the SMS, not against a verbal "looks fine" |
| Change control | Any post-SMS change gets a new revision before cut |

See [why your bulk order does not match the sample](/hub/blog/why-your-bulk-order-doesnt-match-the-sample-and-how-to-prevent-it). QIMA explains Acceptable Quality Limit (AQL) sampling used in garment inspections: [QIMA AQL overview](https://www.qima.com/aql-acceptable-quality-limit). Put the AQL and SMS reference in the PO so pass/fail is not invented on the packing day.

## How many units should the first bulk run be?

Size the first run to learn, not to fill a fantasy warehouse. Across the factories that publish MOQ data on NovaSupplier's [low MOQ manufacturers page](/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal/low-moq) (42 of them as of 6 November 2026), the lowest published minimum is 50 units. Across those same 42 factories, the median of each factory's lowest minimum is 100 units. All 42 of those factories accept orders of 100 units or fewer. Confirm every minimum in writing for your exact style and colourway split; published MOQs are a starting filter, not a PO.

Fifteen of those 42 factories publish a sample lead time between 1 and 4 weeks. Typical production lead time remains 6 to 10 weeks after sample approval. For sizing logic, use [how many units your first clothing production run should be](/hub/blog/how-many-units-should-your-first-clothing-production-run-be). Prefer fewer styles with enough units per colour over many micro-runs that sit under the real minimum.

Browse product filters when you shortlist: [manufacturers in Portugal](/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal), [T-shirts](/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal/t-shirts), [knitwear](/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal/knitwear), [hoodies](/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal/hoodies) and [jackets](/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal/jackets).

## First bulk checklist (copy this)

| Step | Done? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Ship-by / in-store date written | | |
| Backwards calendar with 6 to 10 week production window | | |
| Tech pack matches intended SMS | | |
| SMS approved and labelled | | |
| Measurement chart + size set approved | | |
| Fabric reserved; lot/shade notes ready | | |
| PP sample from bulk-intent fabric approved | | |
| Incoterm named on PO | | |
| Deposit funded | | |
| AQL and packing rules on PO | | |
| Inspection booked before ship | | |
| First-run quantity checked against written MOQ | | |

## Red flags that you are not ready to cut

| Red flag | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| No SMS, only a sketch or a competitor photo | Nothing objective to judge bulk against |
| Fabric "probably arriving soon" with no date | Cut dates slip; wholesale does not |
| Deposit unfunded while launch is already announced | Factory will not prioritise your line |
| Different Incoterms across quotes you are still comparing | You cannot rank landed cost fairly |
| Measurement chart still changing after "approval" | Fit will not match the SMS |
| You are already inside the 6 to 10 week window with no SMS | Sample first; do not cold-cut |
| Factory will not hold your SMS as the bulk reference | Quality language will be argued later |
| Quantity and colourways still changing weekly | Setup and shade risk explode |

If the relationship itself is broken after a written fix, that is a [switch](/hub/blog/how-to-switch-clothing-manufacturers-without-losing-quality) case. If you need capacity or a second category while Factory A keeps running, use the [second factory guide](/hub/blog/how-to-add-a-second-garment-factory-without-risking-the-season).

:::faq

### What is a first bulk order in clothing production?

It is the first commercial production purchase order after samples are approved: real quantities by size and colour, payment terms, packing rules and a delivery window. It is not another development sample.

### How long does a first bulk order take in Portugal?

Typical production lead time is 6 to 10 weeks after sample approval. Sampling, fabric confirmation and PP sample sit before that window. Build the calendar backwards from ship-by, not from optimism.

### Do I need a PP sample before the first cut?

Yes when fabric, construction or colour risk is non-trivial. A PP sample from bulk-intent fabric is how you catch shade and construction drift before hundreds of units are cut.

### What should be on the purchase order?

Factory name, style and size breakdown, SMS and chart revision, fabric references, Incoterm, delivery window, deposit and balance triggers, AQL, packing rules and any agreed over/under tolerance.

### How do I avoid bulk that does not match the sample?

Lock one SMS, one measurement chart, bulk-intent fabric, written AQL and change control. Check against those artefacts before you release the balance and ship.

### What MOQs are typical for a first Portuguese run?

Across the 42 factories that publish MOQ data on the low MOQ page as of 6 November 2026, the lowest published minimum is 50 units and the median of each factory's lowest minimum is 100 units. All 42 accept 100 or fewer. Confirm your exact style in writing.

:::

## Sources

All links checked 6 November 2026. Factory figures on NovaSupplier are self-reported on factory profiles and data pages.

- NovaSupplier low MOQ manufacturers in Portugal: https://www.novasupplier.com/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal/low-moq
- NovaSupplier manufacturers in Portugal: https://www.novasupplier.com/hub/manufacturers-in-portugal
- International Chamber of Commerce, Incoterms 2020: https://iccwbo.org/business-solutions/incoterms-rules/incoterms-2020/
- QIMA, Acceptable Quality Limit (AQL): https://www.qima.com/aql-acceptable-quality-limit
- Clothing production timeline: https://www.novasupplier.com/hub/blog/clothing-production-timeline-how-long-everything-actually-takes
- Why bulk orders do not match the sample: https://www.novasupplier.com/hub/blog/why-your-bulk-order-doesnt-match-the-sample-and-how-to-prevent-it
- How many units your first production run should be: https://www.novasupplier.com/hub/blog/how-many-units-should-your-first-clothing-production-run-be

*Updated 6 November 2026. Founder experiences above are paraphrased from public posts in founder communities; no usernames.*

## Post your brief and let factories come to you

If you are ready to place a first bulk brief, or still need sample replies before you cut, you can [post a brief on NovaSupplier](https://www.novasupplier.com/onboarding?intent=brand) and compare replies from factories that make your product. Factories engage with a brief in under 30 hours. It is free for brands: NovaSupplier charges brands no fee, and you pay the factory for samples and production as usual. There is no agent in between, and the factory relationship stays with your brand. NovaSupplier lists 73 active manufacturers, all in Portugal; factories pay a 3.5% commission on every order, including reorders. [Read what NovaSupplier is and how it works](/hub/blog/what-is-novasupplier).

:::suppliers campelo-sa-leading-inovation kapuz cstrends fonte-and-faria top-trends marjomotex the-developers create-fashion-brand versaltex confmendes abilheira-and-cunha cottonanswer :::