MOQ in European Clothing Manufacturing: The Complete Guide | NovaSupplier
MOQ Guide for European Clothing Manufacturing
Matias Santos, Founder·
Minimum order quantities are one of the biggest friction points between independent brands and European factories. Ask for too little and the factory won't take your call seriously. Misjudge what's realistic and you end up either over-ordering to hit minimums or losing the factory relationship before it starts. This guide breaks down what MOQs actually look like across European countries and product types, why factories set them the way they do, and how independent brands can negotiate realistic minimums without damaging the relationship.
What MOQ Actually Means (and Why It Varies So Much)
MOQ stands for minimum order quantity, but the number a factory quotes you is rarely arbitrary. It reflects the economics of their operation: how long it takes to set up a production line, how much waste they incur during setup, and what margin they need to cover the administrative overhead of a new customer.
A factory quoting you 500 units per style isn't being difficult. They've calculated that below that number, the order costs them money to fulfil. Understanding this changes how you approach the negotiation.
The main factors that determine a factory's MOQ:
Fabric commitment: Most factories don't hold large amounts of fabric in stock. When you place an order, they buy fabric for it. Fabric suppliers have their own MOQs (often 100–300 metres per colour), and a certain amount of fabric is lost to cutting waste and sampling. The factory needs enough units to justify the fabric purchase.
Machine setup time: Switching a production line from one product to another takes time, sometimes half a day. That time costs money. A 30-unit order doesn't justify that setup cost.
Trim and accessories: Buttons, zippers, labels, hangtags, these all have their own MOQs. If your custom woven label has a minimum of 500 units and you're only ordering 50 garments, the factory is absorbing that cost.
Their existing client base: A factory used to working with established mid-size brands will have calibrated MOQs to match. Finding factories that are newer, growing, or specifically set up for smaller brands is how you access lower minimums.
MOQ Ranges by Country
European manufacturing isn't uniform. Different countries have different cost structures, factory cultures, and typical minimum order quantities.
Portugal
Portugal has become the preferred destination for smaller DTC brands partly because it has the most accessible MOQ structure of any major European manufacturing country.
Small to mid-size factories: 50–200 units per style
Mid-size factories: 150–500 units per style
Large CMT operations: 300–1,000+ units per style
The Braga/Guimarães corridor in the north is particularly well-suited to smaller orders. There's a high density of factories, and competition among them means they're often more willing to work with emerging brands. Portugal also has strong knitwear, jersey, and activewear factories, categories where MOQs tend to be more flexible than in tailoring.
Italy
Italian factories carry a reputation premium, and their MOQs reflect it. The economics are tighter because labour costs are significantly higher.
Small artisan workshops (laboratori): 30–100 units, but these are usually finishing or assembly operations, not full CMT
Mid-size factories: 200–500 units per style
Premium factories: 300–800+ units per style
Italy is the right choice when the "Made in Italy" label carries direct commercial value for your product, luxury accessories, tailored pieces, high-end knitwear. For more volume-driven basics, the cost-per-unit and MOQ combination makes Italy less competitive for early-stage brands.
Spain
Spain sits between Portugal and Italy in terms of MOQ expectations and pricing. There's strong capability in denim (particularly around Barcelona and Valencia), leather goods, and footwear.
Denim and woven factories: 200–500 units per style
Knitwear: 100–300 units per style
Leather goods / footwear: Varies significantly; 50–200 pairs for footwear, lower for small leather goods
Eastern Europe (Poland, Romania, Bulgaria)
Eastern European factories generally have lower MOQs than Western Europe because labour costs are lower and fixed overhead per order is smaller.
Poland: 100–300 units, strong in tailoring and structured outerwear
Romania: 100–400 units, strong in jersey and basics
Bulgaria: 80–250 units, growing capacity in sportswear and casualwear
The trade-off is that these factories are further from major fabric mills and may have less experience with Western European brand management expectations.
MOQ by Product Category
Product type matters as much as geography. Some categories naturally carry higher minimums due to setup complexity.
Product Category
Typical European MOQ
Key Driver
Basic jersey T-shirt
100–300 units
Fabric MOQ, dye lot
Sweatshirt / hoodie
100–200 units
Fabric, trim
Woven shirt
150–400 units
Fabric width, pattern complexity
Tailored trousers
150–350 units
Fusing, lining, setup
Outerwear / jacket
100–250 units
Complex construction, multiple trims
Knitwear (fully fashioned)
Fully fashioned knitwear is often more flexible on MOQ because each garment is essentially knitted individually to shape, there's less cutting waste and fabric commitment. Cut-and-sew knitwear has more similar constraints to woven products.
How to Negotiate MOQs Without Burning the Relationship
Most founders approach MOQ negotiation wrong. They lead with the ask ("can you do 50 units?") before establishing any credibility or context. The factory hears this and mentally files you under "too small to bother with."
A better approach:
Give context first. Before asking for any concession on minimums, explain who you are, what you're building, and where you're headed. A factory is more willing to take a smaller initial order from a brand that has a clear plan to grow than from someone who seems to just want one production run.
Offer something in return. If you want lower minimums, the factory needs something to compensate for the reduced economics. Options include: paying a higher unit price on the first order, paying a setup fee, committing to a follow-up order in writing (even informally), or moving production across multiple styles to give the factory a larger total order value.
Consolidate your order. If you're launching with multiple styles, running them through the same factory in the same production window gives the factory a higher total order, they may flex individual style minimums if the combined order is valuable enough.
Ask about stock fabrics. Some factories maintain stock of popular base fabrics. If you can design around fabrics they already hold, the fabric MOQ constraint disappears, which is often the biggest driver of high minimums.
Be transparent about the sample stage. Going straight into negotiating minimums before sampling is premature. Get through the sample process first, build the relationship, and then the minimum conversation happens with both parties already invested.
The Reality of "Low MOQ" Claims
A lot of factories market themselves as "low MOQ friendly" and then quote you 300 units when you actually inquire. There are a few reasons for this.
First, "low" is relative. A factory used to orders of 2,000 units thinks 300 is low. For a brand in its first production run, 300 is high.
Second, low MOQ often comes with conditions: higher price per unit, longer lead times (your order gets deprioritised), or restrictions on customisation.
Third, some factories outsource small orders to smaller workshops while taking credit for the relationship. This isn't always bad, the workshop may do good work, but it means you're not actually working with the factory you visited.
Platforms like NovaSupplier (app.novasupplier.com/onboarding) help with this by showing you verified factories that are actually set up for smaller DTC brands, with transparent MOQ data before you reach out. That filtering step alone saves a lot of wasted conversations.
MOQs at Sample Stage
Something that trips up first-time founders: sampling has different economics to production, and factories handle it differently.
Most factories will sample for you before you commit to a production order. Sample costs range from €50–300 per style depending on complexity. You're typically paying for the factory's time and material at a premium rate, since they can't amortise it across a volume run.
Some factories charge for samples and deduct the cost from your first production order. Others charge for samples regardless. A small number of larger factories will sample for free if they see commercial potential, but this is rare and usually reserved for brands bringing significant volume.
Do not confuse sampling flexibility with production MOQ flexibility. A factory that happily makes you 3 samples may still require 200 units for production.
Structuring Your First Production Run Around MOQ Constraints
If you're launching with limited capital and need to work within tight minimums, a few practical approaches:
Start with one hero product. Rather than launching 5 styles at 80 units each, consider launching 2 styles at 200 units each. You hit the factory's minimums, they treat you more seriously, and your per-unit cost is lower.
Use pre-orders to fund production. Pre-selling before production starts lets you hit MOQs you couldn't otherwise afford. This is now common enough in DTC that customers accept it, just be clear on timelines.
Find a factory that explicitly works with small brands. Some Portuguese and Eastern European factories have specifically structured their operations for smaller orders. Their prices per unit are higher, but they're set up for this and won't treat you as an afterthought.
Consider working with a production partner on first runs. Some sourcing consultants consolidate orders from multiple small brands and negotiate combined volume. The benefit is access to better factories; the cost is a margin on top of your unit price and less direct factory relationship.
FAQ
What's the lowest MOQ I can realistically expect from a reputable European factory? For a good CMT factory with a reasonable product range, 50–100 units per style is realistic at the low end, usually in Portugal or Eastern Europe. Below that, you're looking at workshops rather than factories, with corresponding capacity and consistency constraints.
Can I split an MOQ across colourways? Sometimes, but usually with a penalty. A factory might allow you to split 200 units across 3 colourways, but they may require a slightly higher total (e.g., 75 per colour = 225 total) to cover the additional dye lot costs. Always ask rather than assuming.
Do MOQs apply per size run or per style? Per style. A style is typically one silhouette in one fabric and colourway. If you have the same T-shirt in white and black, that's usually two styles with separate MOQs, though some factories treat them as one if the cut is identical.
What happens if I don't hit the MOQ? Usually the factory won't proceed, or will only proceed with a surcharge. In some cases they'll quote you a higher unit price and lower the effective MOQ, this is worth asking for if you're stuck.
How do MOQs work for re-orders? Re-orders sometimes have lower MOQs than the initial run, because the factory already has your patterns, grading, and production notes. This is especially true in knitwear where the machine programming is already done.
Is there a way to find factories with lower MOQs without cold emailing hundreds of them? Yes, NovaSupplier (app.novasupplier.com/onboarding) lets you filter factories by MOQ range and product category before you reach out. You post your project and factories that fit your requirements come to you with structured quotes.
Getting Started
MOQ negotiation works best when you approach it as a relationship problem, not a purchasing problem. Factories take on small orders when they believe in the brand's trajectory, when the founder seems professional and prepared, and when the economics are workable.
Do your homework before the first call. Know your product specs, your target quantities, your growth projections, and your willingness to compromise on unit price in exchange for flexibility on minimums.
If you want to skip the cold outreach and connect directly with European factories that are set up for DTC brands at early stages, start at NovaSupplier. You post your project once; factories come to you.